Highway 17: Sault Ste. Marie to Nipigon
Arguably the most scenic highway in Ontario, this 580 km route snakes around the east and
north shores of Lake Superior, passing through the most rugged terrain seen in this province.
The route is fully paved, and is well-suited for vehicles of all types. The route begins in
Sault Ste. Marie, and heads north towards the Montreal River. As the highway passes over the
first range of mountains near Hwy 552, drivers are rewarded with a spectacular view of
Batchawana Bay, and a scene which could best be described as Californian. For as far as the
eye can see, low ranges of rounded, forested mountains extend westerly along the shores of Lake
Superior. The highway closely hugs the shore of Lake Superior for over 100 km, sandwiched
between the waters of Lake Superior, and the mountains which lay a short distance inland. The
road's proximity to Lake Superior provides for some magnificent views of the wild coastline.
There are countless miles of isolated beaches and rocky points along this section. Watching a
Lake Superior sunset from one of these beaches is a truly memorable experience. As you travel
north, the land becomes more rugged, and the inland mountains begin to encroach on the
shoreline. At Montreal River, the coastline becomes too rugged for the highway to pass through,
and the road abruptly begins to ascend up through the mountains. The next 15 km of highway
feature some spectacular views of the Montreal River, and eventually, of Agawa Bay. Here, Hwy 17
enters Lake Superior Provincial Park. After a relatively flat section around the Agawa River, the
highway once again is forced away from the coast, and up through the mountains. The lookout at
Agawa Bay is one of the most spectacular in the province, with vistas extending some 20 km down
the coast on a clear day. For the next 100 km, the highway briefly returns to the coast on several
occasions, only to be forced inland again by the rugged terrain. After passing the breathtakingly
beautiful Old Woman Bay, Hwy 17 completes its final struggle over the last set of mountains before
finally arriving in Wawa.
At Wawa, Hwy 17 crosses some relatively flat terrain, with scenery somewhat more typical of
Northeastern Ontario. For the next 80 km, Hwy 17 winds its way through the forests and remote
northern lakes of the Algoma District. At White River, the highway begins to turn west towards
Nipigon. For the next 70 km, the scenery is far more subdued that on the other portions of
this route. The highway is fairly flat and straight, with only occasional lakes to punctuate
the perpetual forest scenery. Just west of Hwy 627, Hwy 17 suddenly emerges from the forests and
runs straight into the rugged coastal mountain ranges of the north shore of Lake Superior. For
the next 180 km, drivers will enjoy some of the most dramatic scenery in the province. The rugged
coast, the mountains, and the chronic fog that is often encountered here creates a rather
maritime environment. The picturesque fishing village of Rossport seems right at home on the
remote coast. Long fingers of mountains stick far out into Lake Superior, and Hwy 17 is
continually forced up through high passes to avoid the rugged coast. The longest of these
passes lies betweeen Pays Plat and Cavers, and is almost 11 km long (6 km uphill, and 5 km
downhill, with grades approaching 8% on many sections). The highway rock cut at Cavers is
arguably the most dramatic in the province. The final series of mountains is at Kama Bay, and
the highway passes right below the towering red cliffs, while drivers are rewarded with an
unforgettable view of beautiful Nipigon Bay. About 15 km west of Kama Bay, Hwy 17 joins up
with Hwy 11 from Geraldton, and the two highways head west into Nipigon.
Highway 61: Thunder Bay to Pigeon River
This strikingly beautiful route runs for 60 km from Thunder Bay southwesterly to the Minnesota
Border at Pigeon River, passing through one of Ontario's most unique landscapes. The Thunder
Bay Mesas are a geological oddity in the province, and are surprisingly similar to the dry,
rocky peaks normally seen in the American Southwest. These flat-topped mountains have abrupt
vertical sides and tops that are practically level. These mesas dot much of the countryside
around Thunder Bay, but are most dramatic between Thunder Bay and Pigeon River. This route is
fully paved, and is well-suited for vehicles of all types. The route begins at the intersection
of Arthur Street and the Thunder Bay Expressway. From there, the route heads south along Hwy 61
through Thunder Bay's rather unsightly industrial section. Fortunately, the unpleasant scenery
does not last for very long. After 4 km, Hwy 61 crosses the Kaministiquia River Bridge, and
leaves the city behind as it winds below the dramatic peaks of Mount McKay. The highway then
heads west, and passes across a wide flat plain, sandwiched between a long range of mountains
known as "The Nor'Westers", and the steep highlands north of the Kaministiquia River. After 18
km, Hwy 61 meets up with Hwy 130, and suddenly swings south towards the Minnesota Border. For
the next 15 km, Hwy 61 passes through a strange landscape of sprawling, prosperous farms
overlooked by intimidating mesas on both sides of the highway. Eventually, the wide flat valley
peters out entirely, and the farms suddenly disappear from the landscape. The highway then
winds underneath the mesas, which slowly encroach on either side of the road. The landscape
becomes increasingly rugged with every bend in the road. By the time Hwy 61 approaches Hwy
593, the mountains tower hundreds of feet above the highway. South of Hwy 593, the mountains
quickly subside, as Hwy 61 winds its way down towards the Pigeon River Bridge. When you reach
the customs building at Pigeon River, you must turn around and drive back the way you came, as
there is no other direct route back to Thunder Bay. While Hwy 593 is a pleasant alternate route
back to the city (via Nolalu), it is very remote and circuitous. If you stop at the Pigeon
River Information Centre, be sure to try the short nature trail to High Falls. It is one of
Northwestern Ontario's most dramatic waterfalls, and will pleasantly conclude any journey down
Hwy 61.
Additional routes will be posted soon!
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